If I use "%m" in the modeline, it shows only major-mode, but it isn't clickable anymore. What other ways are there?


Just have a look at mode-line-modes in bindings.el. There you find for the major mode the value used in the following snippet:

(setq mode-line-format
      `(:propertize ("" mode-name)
            help-echo "Major mode\n\
mouse-1: Display major mode menu\n\
mouse-2: Show help for major mode\n\
mouse-3: Toggle minor modes"
            mouse-face mode-line-highlight
            local-map ,mode-line-major-mode-keymap))

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